The term “cotton candy” was adopted in the 1920s under the auspices of Josef Lascaux, another candy-purveying dentist. They packaged it in wooden boxes and marketed it as “fairy floss.”
An estimated 20 million people attended the fair, to whom Morrison and Wharton sold 68,655 helpings of cotton candy. Louis World’s Fair-a seven-month-long extravaganza, featuring among the exhibits a re-enactment of the Boer War, the world’s largest pipe organ, a 265-foot “Observation Wheel,” and an elephant water slide. Morrison and Wharton’s electric candy machine first came to the attention of the public at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition of 1904, popularly known as the St. What you’re eating, when you chow down on a giant poof of cotton candy, is the sugar version of glass. The syrup cools so rapidly that the sugar never gets a chance to re-crystallize, instead forming a disorganized, amorphous solid. As the syrup sprays through the holes, it solidifies almost instantly into long skinny strands, just 50 microns (two-thousandths of an inch) in diameter. At the same time, centrifugal force generated by the spinning head-which whips around at a dizzying 3,400 revolutions per minute- forces the liquid sugar through the tiny holes. At the top of the head, a heater melts the sugar, reducing it to syrup. Their creation worked much like modern cotton-candy machines today.
Together, in 1897, the pair designed and patented what they called an electric candy machine: a metal bowl containing a central spinning head filled with sugar crystals and perforated with minuscule holes. Perversely enough, cotton candy was invented by dentist William Morrison, with the help of confectioner John C. The reason for this is that cotton candy is mostly non-caloric air. While these are hardly the stuff of the ideal diet, cotton candy, surprisingly, is the least caloric of the lot, a mere 105 calories for a standard one-ounce serving.
I’m talking corn dogs, fried dough, funnel cake, taffy apples, soft pretzels, onion rings, snow cones, and pink-and-blue bowling-ball-sized puffs of cotton candy. Summer is the season of state fairs, and with state fairs comes fair food, the inevitable accompaniment to the Ferris wheel, the Scrambler, the bumper cars, and the carousel.
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